Overview
In this article will go over our anodizing setup and how to anodize your own titanium parts. Anodizing titanium is an electrolytic process that is used to modify the oxide layer on the surface of a titanium part via electric current. Different voltages lead to different thickness of the oxide layer. When light hits the titanium surface, color is shown that corresponds to the layers thickness.
Who is titanium anodizing for?
Anyone who works with titanium that would like to add some color to their parts. Knife makers, watch makers, and many DIY projects benefit from knowing this skill.
Who is this article for?
This was written for any individual or small business that may find themselves wanting to anodize titanium for color. This is a guide based on our personal experiences / setup, so we make no specific scientific claims, and we do not claim responsibility if you injury yourself. Colors ≠ flavor.

Required Materials
- 1L plastic cups with lids: We use 7 in our setup. We get ours at Home Depot
- 2L plastic cups with lids: We use 1 for our anodizing bath. We get ours at Home Depot.
- Simple Green: For parts cleaning.
- Distilled Water: 8L is a good amount to start with. Water needs to be changed periodically.
- Baking Soda: For alkaline neutralization after etching.
- Trisodium Phosphate (TSP): For the anodizing bath.
- Titanium acid etch: Multi-etch, or follow our guide on making your own.
- A way to heat the acid etch to 60c (140°): Crock Pot is what we use.
- Titanium wire: We use 16ga grade 1.
- DC power supply: We have also used this one with good success.
- Piece of titanium that has more mass then the parts you are trying to anodize, which will be our cathode.
Optional Materials
- Ultrasonic cleaner: Let technology clean your parts. This is the smaller one we also use.
- Soft bristle tooth brushes: For when you want to be the technology that cleans your parts.
- Fish tank bubblier: Helps in keeping contaminants off parts when anodizing.
- Mesh: Prevent touching the cathode during anodizing.
Safety
- Rubber or disposable gloves.
- Safety glasses or goggles.
- Fume hood or respirator.
Setup

Workspace
Get yourself a sturdy work area. A thick wooden topped bench is what we use. We do not recommend using a metal table, because if any of the acid etch touches steel it will rust very quickly. Make sure this area is very well lit, and has access to power outlets.
Take your containers and lay them out. We labeled ours based on step, and what was contained inside, but this is not required.
Containers
- Pre-rinse: 100% distilled water. This will be used to rinse our part directly after cleaning.
- Rinse before acid: 100% distilled water. This will be used to rinse our part of any contaminants that may have been picked up from the previous pre-rinse step. Having two rinse cycles increases the cleanliness of the rinse prior to the acid etch, and decreases the likely-hood of dragging any remaining cleaning agents into the acid etch.
- Acid etch: Take your container of acid etch and place it inside your chosen heating setup. We are using a cheap Crock Pot from Walmart. We placed the container directly on the floor of the Crock Pot. You can fill the Crock Pot with water and use that to “double boil” the acid etch if you desire. Leave the lid on the acid, and leave the Crock pot lid on. Heat the acid etch to 60c (140°), or until small bubbles are visible.
- Post acid rinse: 100% distilled water. Used to pull the bulk of the acid off the part after etching.
- Alkaline neutralization: Distilled water and 15g (0.52oz) of baking soda (small handful).
- Final rinse before anodize: 100% distilled water.
- Anodizing Bath: 2L distilled water, 10g (0.35oz) TSP, titanium cathode submerged with mesh surrounding it so it cannot be accidentally bumped into, fish tank bubblier on, centered and submerged at the bottom of the container.
- Post rinse: 100% distilled water.